Discover the midcoast

Popham Beach State Park, Phippsburg

Thu, 12/01/2016 - 2:00pm

Walking the beach for many people has become a year-round outdoor activity. Popham Beach State Park in Phippsburg is one that’s close by, featuring several miles of coastline to enjoy in the waning days of autumn.

During two recent visits, I walked the full length of the park. The temperature was close to 50 both afternoons and so it wasn’t surprising to see a dozen other folks out enjoying the nice weather including several horseback riders.

Popham Beach is part of Campbell Island, although today geographically the area more closely resembles a peninsula. It’s shaped somewhat like a fist bordered by the ocean, the Kennebec River, Aitkins Bay, and the Morse River.

One of the park’s prominent features is Fox Island that visitors can walk to at low tide. It’s a fairly easy climb to the island’s summit that offers breathtaking views in every direction. Here you’ll also see a granite memorial stone with the following inscription: “This apparatus is erected here in memory of Dale Hatch Bates College Class of 1966 who drowned May 12, 1963.”  As the story goes, Hatch was attempting to save a fellow student who had been swept off the rocks when he tumbled into the ocean himself. The other student survived but sadly Hatch lost his life. This tragedy serves as a reminder not to venture too close to the edge of the island’s rocky slopes.

Gazing back across the tidal path, you’ll see where the terrain rises up on the horizon. This is Sabino Hill, one-time home to a U.S. Military reservation during World War I. At its summit are the ruins of Fort Baldwin.

Looking out into the ocean you’ll see the Pond Island Lighthouse on the left warning mariners of the Pond Island Shoals. Further out is the much larger Seguin Island, home to Maine’s tallest and second oldest lighthouse. During the spring and summer, a ferry service offers daily trips to Seguin where visitors can tour the light station as well as enjoy the island’s hiking trails and beaches. It’s never too early to plan for summer.

You can only walk to Fox Island at low tide. Should you do so remember to keep an eye on the incoming tide or risk finding yourself marooned!

Going to the left on the shoreline, east if you prefer, carries you to Hunnewell Beach. Overlooking the shore are several campgrounds, seasonal cottages and year-round residences. The shoreline gradually curves around where the waters of the Kennebec River meet the ocean. A short distance ahead is the former U.S. Coast Guard Station and beyond that Fort Popham, another state park. Directly across the water from here is Bay Point in Georgetown.

Walking to the right from the park’s entrance carries you past a long stretch of sand dunes where you’ll see twisted pine trees, beach rose and mounds of Indian grass. I like to imagine this area looks much the same today as when the first English explorers visited.

As the shoreline narrows, you’ll pass a number of tide pools and much longer tidal channel that cuts the beach in half. Not too many years ago, a natural sea wall barrier was made here to help control beach erosion that had resulted from extreme tides and storm surges. If you follow the shoreline its whole length, you’ll come to a salt marsh and the Morse River inlet. Across from it are Morse Mountain and Morse Hill, now part of the Bates-Morse Mountain Conservation Area, another popular place open to hiking and summer beach bathing.

Dogs are permitted at Popham Beach State Park from Oct. 1 to March 31, but should be leashed at all times. Be respectful of others and clean up after your canine. No overnight camping or open fires on the beach are permitted. Other rules apply as well, an important one being to stay off and away from the dunes. Along with providing protection from beach erosion, the dunes provide an important nesting ground for migratory and other birds. For more information go to: www.maine.gov/dacf/parks.

The state park is about a 20-minute drive from Bath. From Route 1 take Route 209 to Phippsburg. At the junction with route 216. bear left continuing on Route 209. Just beyond a vast salt marsh, you’ll see the park entrance on your right. The park is open year-round during daylight hours.